Constance Pelkey Designs

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

How I condition the new formula KATO poly clay

I always keep a small conditioned sheet of each color… no less than 3”X3”…

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mine happens to be #1.

NEVER run clay through the machine in bunches… only feed slices no thicker than your thickest setting into the rollers!

KATO is a tough firm clay that works up beautifully! However, you CAN NOT expect to work with it and have your finished pieces last for any length of time without proper conditioning.

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By all means, if you can make it happen – GET A MOTOR!

Especially if you have joint issues in your arms… I had TWO torn rotator cuff surgeries in two years. I couldn’t clay using the crank. I went NUTZ without my clay!

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flip so the fold goes through first, always! It prevents bubbles.

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take a thin slice off the block – I use the 1 LB blocks

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place on the bottom edge

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I’ve found that the lighter colors tend to crumble more… it varies from batch to batch, color to color.

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always fold left to right with edges slightly off… turn fold to face down, run through PM, repeat.

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Your mileage may vary with this method, but it works well for me and is the way I teach how to work with KATO, something I’ve done exclusively since Donna and Vern developed it years ago.

2 comments:

Cindy Lietz, Polymer Clay Tutor said...

Great article Connie! Sorry to hear about your shoulder problems. In your case, you would especially need a motor to condition hard Kato clay. I have shoulder issues too only just in my left shoulder, so the crank hasn't been a problem so far. I like your method. Seems a lot faster than some of the other methods out there.

surfingcat said...

Thanks for sharing that advice, I'll try it.
I just wondered why you stressed not to bring the edges together?
It must take a while doing it this way but then I guess it takes a while doing it anyway but it's worth it in the end.